NAZARÉ’S GIANT WAVES EXPLAINED:
WHAT MAKES IT A BEAUTY & A BEAST AT THE SAME TIME?
When Garrett McNamara received that email, he had no idea he was looking at a life-changing path—one that would bring worldwide fame not only to himself, but also to Nazaré.
If you search for the highest waves ever surfed, one location appears again and again: Praia do Norte, Nazaré, holding 7 out of the world’s top 10 records.
Yet Nazaré’s fame—recognized today even by people with little interest in surfing—is surprisingly recent. Its story began just over a decade ago.
At the time, big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara—later crowned the “King of Surf”—was at home in Hawaii when he received an email from a Nazaré local. The message was simple: “We have big waves here too. You should come and see if there’s something special.”
What McNamara discovered upon arriving in Nazaré exceeded anything he could have imagined.
What stood before him was not just a surfable coast, but a true surfing paradise—one of the rarest, most extreme, and most challenging in the world.
Call it luck, coincidence, or fate, but those very waves carried McNamara into surfing history. In 2011, he broke the world record for the highest wave ever surfed—24 meters, putting both his name and Nazaré firmly on the global surfing map.
Watch the video below to see the historic moment.
And here’s another video from one of the most recent records, showing just how massive—and how deadly—these waves can be.
Here’s another video; from one of the last world records broken so you can see how high the waves get and how deadly they can be.
How Do the Gentle Waves of the Sea Turn into Deadly Monsters?
Waves are created by external forces that set seawater in motion.
Think of someone doing a cannonball into a swimming pool, or a speedboat tearing through a calm bay just to draw attention. Human interference can cause waves—but only on a small scale.
In nature, the most common cause of ocean waves is wind. As wind blows across the sea surface, it transfers energy to the water. Since this energy affects mostly the surface, the resulting waves are usually manageable—and often enjoyable.
Much larger waves, such as tsunamis, are created very differently. These are caused by violent underwater disturbances like earthquakes or volcanic eruptions on the seabed.
The immense energy released by such events displaces enormous volumes of water. As this energy moves toward the shore and finds no space to dissipate, it transforms into towering, fast-moving waves capable of devastating everything in their path.
The video below explains this process visually and clearly.
How Do Nazaré's Giant Waves Form?
Nazaré sits where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Portuguese coast and is regularly exposed to powerful ocean swells.
But if the ocean alone were enough, giant waves would appear along every Atlantic coastline—which they don’t.
For waves to reach towering heights (up to 30 meters), a rare combination of natural forces must perform an impressive teamwork: ocean swells, wind strength, tides, opposing currents, and—most importantly—the seabed.
This is where Nazaré becomes truly unique.
One of the main actors is the canyon underlying Praia do Norte, which is large and deep enough to push the limits of the human mind.
Instead of a regular see floor of sand and/or at least little rocks, an enormous canyon lies beneath Nazaré’s Praia do Norte beach. This underwater giant, which plunges 5 kilometres deep and stretches 230 kilometres offshore, can shoot waves up to 30 meters high when it is awaken with the other assisting factors.
First, the winds need to start working in favour.
When powerful Atlantic swells approach the coast, the canyon splits the incoming energy. Part of the water continues as a surface current, while another part dives into the canyon, creating a powerful internal current. As this internal flow circulates back upward, it meets the surface waves, amplifying both their height and force.
In most coastal areas, the seabed helps dissipate wave energy as it nears shore. In Nazaré, the opposite happens—the energy is reinforced.
When this intensified water then collides with the counter-current running along the Nazaré coast (just like a bump that a car at certain speed hits), the result is explosive: giant waves that are awe-inspiring to watch and terrifying even for elite surfers.
What Makes Nazaré’s Waves
So Dangerous—and So Special?
Nazaré’s waves are not dangerous only because of their size.
Another critical factor is where the canyon ends. It finishes extremely close to the shore, meaning incoming waves crash against what is basically an underwater cliff instead of -let’s say- a “sweet soft bed of a beach”.
That is also what wiped out surfers will most likely crash into no matter how cautious they are.
That’s why the accidents in Nazaré are fatal or near-fatal at best. Nazaré’s waves play for keeps, and the slightest mishap may result in accidents where chances of surviving are very low.
That is what makes Nazaré both fascinating and deadly beautiful.
Nazaré’s giant waves season are only for surfers of highest level of experience and in case of an accident those who attempt to surf during that season without such experience may face heavy criticism —for good reason.
NOTE: If you are an aspiring surfer, the big waves season is definitely not for you. However, from June to September, you can still enjoy calmer beaches in Nazaré. Nearby Ericeira also offers excellent surfing conditions for all skill levels. (See all my Ericeira guides here.)
Leaving risk aside, the sensation of riding—or even witnessing—waves tens of meters high must be indescribable.
But as I mentioned in the Nazaré Travel Guide, you don’t need to surf to experience Nazaré’s magic. Watching the giants from shore is just as unforgettable, and the town itself offers many other remarkable sights and experiences.
To see what else Nazaré has to offer, click here.
NAZARÉ & SURF – AT A GLANCE
- Best season (big waves): October–March (peak Nov–Feb)
- Big-wave days: Tow-in surfing & experts only.
- Competition window: Typically Nov 1 – Mar 31 (next 2026/27 season). Dates aren’t fixed—WSL monitors swell and issues alerts shortly before the event.
- How it’s scheduled: WSL issues a Yellow Alert (up to ~72 hrs before) and a Green Alert (~24 hrs before) when conditions are perfect for giant waves.
- Open surf days: Smaller, paddle-in conditions (more common spring–summer)
- Main spot: Praia do Norte
- Competition: WSL Nazaré Big Wave Challenge (on-call, winter)
- Watching: Free from lighthouse & cliffs
Explore Mafra & Ericeira Tours
Mystery Behind Nazaré’s Giant Waves Explained
Renowned for their sheer enormity and raw power, Nazaré’s waves can reach staggering heights during peak swells and stand as some of the largest and most formidable waves on the planet. But how do these giant waves occur? Find out here >>>
Travel Guide to Nazaré
Welcome to Nazaré, a charming fishing village turned international destination renowned for its towering waves, rich culture, and idyllic scenery.
Travel Guide to Leiria
From its medieval castle perched atop a hill to its quaint cobblestone streets and lively town squares, Leiria offers a captivating blend of old-world charm and modern allure.
José Franco Model Village: An Open Air Ethnographic Museum
In Sobreiro, a small town half an hour away from Mafra, there is a little village worthwhile a visit. A perfect weekend activity for kids and adults.
ENG 
TR