SALINAS de RIO MAIOR:
An Unusual Trip to Unique Salt Pans of Portugal
Salinas de Rio Maior is a unique and historic salt mine located near Rio Maior, in a valley at the bottom of Serras d’Aire and Candeeiros Natural Park, about an hour’s drive from Lisbon.
The site has been in operation since at least the 12th century (the first reference to its existence dates from 1177), making it one of Portugal’s oldest and most unusual salt production locations. It is also the only existing interior salt mines and the only ones that are “fully operational” in Europe.
Classified as Property of Public Interest since December 1997, here, salt is not harvested from the sea but from an underground saltwater spring which is 7-8 times saltier than ocean water and originates from a 200-million-year-old geological fault that runs deep underground. As Candeeiros is a limestone mountain region, it enables rainwater to seep into underground which then turns into undercurrents. One of these, passes across a deep rock-salt mine which feeds the saltwater spring that I mentioned above.
The salt fields of Rio Maior are famous for their traditional production methods. Not taking any chemical treatment or additives, the Salt is extracted manually from shallow salt pans during the summer months when the sun evaporates the water, leaving behind crystals. Local artisans still use centuries-old techniques, creating a blend of modern and historical practices. The purity of this Salt makes it special and demanded by buyers in and out of Portugal.
As a solution for the challenge of keeping up with the competitive economy while preserving this cultural heritage, COOPSAL (A Cooperativa dos Produtores de Sal Fonte Salina De Rio Maior / “The Cooperative Society of the Salt Producers of Rio Maior”) was created in 1979.
In addition to salt, the area features a small village with traditional wooden huts, used for storage of salt and tools for salt work as well as sales back in the day. The reason for these huts to be wooden was to preserve salt against corrosion.
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The salinas are also a popular tourist attraction, drawing visitors to its picturesque landscape, seasonal salt harvesting demonstrations, and nearby artisan shops selling local salt-based products, crafts, and regional foods.
What Products Can Be Found in
Salinas de Rio Maior?
Salt at its Best: Flor de Sal
Flor de Sal, (in culinary area mostly known by its French name “Fleur de Sel”, meaning “flower of salt”) is a premium, hand-harvested salt collected by carefully skimming the delicate top layer before it sinks to the bottom of salt pans. Known for its purity and long-lasting, unique flavor, it’s considered one of the most valuable salts on the market, especially in the high-end kitchens due to its quality and rarity.
Rio Maior is one of the best places in Portugal to get your hands on this white crystals. Just check “Loja do Sal” for their amazing salt collection from neutral to infused salts where you can find salts with even red wine, herbs, smoked salt and more.
Not only flor de sal but you can also find regular salt of Rio Maior in different levels of ground from finer to coarser for those who want to keep things simple, yet tasty.
Other Regional Gourmet Products & Crafts:
Aside from salt, you can also find diverse gourmet products as well as regional crafts in Rio Maior.
Some of the gourmet products you can look out for are olive oil, honey, jams, and regional wines made by nearby producers, perfect for pairing with the local salt products.
Local artisan shops selling crafts and souvenirs inspired by the salt pans, such as salt-related decor, pottery, and handmade jewellery.
Health and Beauty Products are other good option to take your home or your loved ones from Rio Maior. You can find salt scrubs, bath salts, and other skincare products made with the natural salt from Salinas do Rio Maior.
Wooden Lockers and Unique Keys:
Rio Maior is famous for their antique key-lock system which have been used since very old times to lock the warehouses in Rio Maior. (Make sure to check my Rio Maior highlights on Instagram for a little demo of it.) These lockers have unique wooden keys, each individually crafted, with no two keys exactly alike. The small key, when pressed, releases the bolt for access.
An amazing creation indeed and you can even buy little models of these keys as a unique souvenir.
Wooden Rulers:
These large, traditional rulers, about 150 cm long and 15 cm wide, were used to record workers’ expenses at the seasonal tavern, which operated out of a wooden house. Each worker’s expenses would be marked, keeping a simple record of purchases made during the season. The traditional symbols used on the rules would represent a drink and its price; which would later be paid with salt as the currency. You can still see some rulers and old workers photos hung on the wall at the café.
Salt Cheeses:
Salt is sometimes shaped into a “cheese” form and carefully dried in an oven. These salt cheeses can serve as both decorative souvenirs and functional seasoning for dishes.
Wooden Salt Houses:
Historically, salt was stored in wooden houses, chosen for their resistance to corrosion. Today, these houses are repurposed for commerce, with salt now stored in cooperative facilities. The exterior supports are crafted from olive tree logs, adding to their charm and durability.
How To Get To Rio Maior Salinas?
Rio Maior is situated in the centre of Portugal, 75 km away from Lisbon and the salt-pans can be found 3 km away from Rio Maior, in a valley at the bottom of Candeeiros Mountain.
Once you arrive in Rio Maior, you’ll find the Salinas de Rio Maior a bit
outside the main town center, surrounded by trees, vineyards and other cultivated lands. Therefore to reach the Salinas de Rio Maior, the best option would be by car.
Nonetheless, here are all the options:
By Car
1. From Lisbon: Take the A1 highway north towards Porto, then take the exit toward Rio Maior on the A15. The drive takes about an hour and a half.
2. From Porto: Head south on the A1, then take the A15 to Rio Maior. The journey is around 2.5 hours. Follow signs to the Salinas, located a short distance outside Rio Maior.
Discover Cars is one of my go-to providers when it comes to renting a car. You can also find some of my alternative suggestions for car rentals here.
By Public Transport
1. Bus from Lisbon: Several bus companies (among them, my favorite is Omio) offer service from Lisbon’s Sete Rios or Campo Grande bus terminals to Rio Maior. The trip usually takes around 1.5 hours. From the Rio Maior bus station, you can take a short taxi ride to the salt pans.
2. Train Option: There is no direct train to Rio Maior, so bus or car is typically more convenient.
Explore Rio Maior Tours
Accommodation
Though Rio Maior is often seen as a stopover between popular destinations and not a typical staycation choice, staying here can be truly delightful. With natural wonders right at your doorstep, cultural sites, gastronomical delights, delicious wines, the feeling of relaxation that only authentic rural settings can offer, Rio Maior promises a peaceful and rejuvenating getaway.
Plus, did you know you can find unique stays in Rio Maior, like staying in a windmill? Check below for my suggestions for more details:
- Casa do Foral : A charming 19th-century guesthouse that combines rustic architecture with relaxing amenities, including a garden, pool, and communal billiards room. Offers couples a peaceful retreat with free parking, Wi-Fi, and easy access to sightseeing.
- Cabeço dos Três Moinhos: Cabeço dos 3 Moinhos is a unique accommodation set in three traditional windmills, where guests can experience a charming stay surrounded by panoramic countryside views. Each windmill is thoughtfully converted into a cozy lodging, offering a serene escape rooted in Portugal’s rustic heritage.
- Armazem de Sal: Armazém de Sal in Rio Maior is a stylish loft accommodation, originally a salt warehouse transformed into a modern, open-concept space. Combining rustic charm with contemporary comfort, it offers guests a unique and cozy stay, reflecting the town’s rich salt-mining heritage.
- Pedra de Sal – Hostel & Suites: Pedra de Sal Hostel & Suites in Rio Maior offers a modern and welcoming stay, blending cozy private rooms and dormitory options with shared amenities. Located near the historic salt pans, this hostel provides a relaxing, social atmosphere ideal for travelers looking to explore the natural and cultural highlights of the region
Search Accommodation Deals in Rio Maior
Useful Links & Resources
- Booking.com : For all your reservations in a faster, safe and secure way.
- GetYourGuide: For the best tours around attractions and having fun activities. You can also skip the lines by purchasing tickets to the main monuments in advance.
- TripAdvisor: You can find diverse arrange of tours, activities and restaurants in and around Rio Maior.
See all my TRAVEL RESOURCES & TOOLS to plan your trip.
How did you find Rio Maior? Is it a destination you’d like to visit? Don’t forget to share your comments with me and this guide with somebody that you’d like to take with you.
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