St. Martin’s Day in Portugal:
Traditions around the World and "Magusto" (The Portuguese Way)
In many parts of the world, November 11 is celebrated as St. Martin’s Day; a religious holiday honoring St Martin of Tours, a 4th century Roman soldier who is known for a certain miracle which made him the patron saint of beggars, drunkards and the poor (and winemakers but we’ll come to that in a second).
According to the legend, Martin, while riding on horseback in a snowstorm came across an almost naked drunken beggar. Not having any money or food, Martin took his sword, cut his cloak in half and gave it to the beggar. Upon this kindness clouds dispersed, and the sun came out. Later at night, Jesus appeared to him wearing exact half cloak and said to the angels “Here is Martin, the Roman soldier who is not baptized; he has clothed me.”
St. Martin is also the patron saint of wine makers and innkeepers as his feast day, Martinmas (obsolete: Martlemass and historically called “Old Halloween” or “Old Hallowmass”), coincides with the wine harvest in Europe. Therefore as of Middle Ages, it has been considered a time for feasting, to celebrate the end of autumn and drinking first wine of the year; as well as the start of preparations for winter. Martlemass beef, produced from cattle slaughtered at this time would be salted to preserve it for the winter. Whereas goose and beef were the meats of choice for the celebrations traditionally, along with foods such as black pudding (in UK, Ireland) and haggis (in Scotland).
St. Martin and Weather Predictions
You may know that English are famously quite preoccupied with weather often using it as a polite conversation starter. This fixation arises from the UK’s highly variable and often unpredictable climate, which can shift dramatically even within a single day, making weather a constant, relatable, and safe subject to discuss in social settings. Sayings like “Red sky at night, shepherd’s delight” highlight how people once used weather patterns for practical daily predictions.
Just like the example above, St. Martin’s Day in England had its own share of weather associations, with people using the day to make seasonal predictions
For example, in English folklore, if the weather is warm on St Martin’s Day, then a harsh winter will follow; in contrast, if at Martinmas it is icy, it will be much warmer by Christmas.
‘If ducks do slide at Martinmas
At Christmas they will swim;
If ducks do swim at Martinmas
At Christmas they will slide’
Many of these weather predictions involve ducks or geese—symbols associated with St. Martin of Tours. . According to legend, St. Martin, in an attempt to avoid becoming a bishop, hid in a pen of geese, but was betrayed by the loud squawking of the geese. Across Europe, people still celebrate Martinmas with traditional roast goose dinners.
We find Portuguese equivalent of this weather association as Verão de São Martinho (St. Martin’s Summer).
Because of the usual good weather period that occurs in Portugal in this time of year, it is quite popular amongst people. This seasonal warmth is often linked to the legend of St. Martin, where Portuguese versions adapt the story by substituting a snowstorm with rain, as snow is uncommon in most parts of Portugal, while rain is typical during this season. In the story, Jesus brings an end to the rain, making this “summer” feel like a divine gift.
Magusto: The Portuguese Way of Celebrating St. Martin’s Day
Over the centuries, St. Martins Day, in late Autumn, has evolved into a celebration of the harvest. In Portugal, St. Martin’s Day (“Dia de São Martinho“) has become a day to celebrate the maturation of the year’s wine production.
Many Portuguese parishes hold large parties for St. Martin’s Day on the weekend of November 11th. Traditionally, a bonfire is built on which, recently-harvested chestnuts (castanhas) are roasted and the first wines of the season are tasted.
Sometimes dryfigs and walnuts may also be served. This celebration festival is known as a Magusto (believed to be derived from “magnus ustus” / “great fire” in Latin).
Locals often enjoy a light alcoholic drink called “água-pé” (literally “foot water“, also considered “Poor man’s wine”), made by adding water to grape pomace—the leftover skins and pulp after grapes are pressed for wine, traditionally stomped with barefeet. After adding water, the mixture ferments for several days to create the beverage. Another popular choice is the stronger “jeropiga”, a sweet liquor made in a similar way, but with “aguardente” (“burning water”, a type of brandy) added to enhance its potency. (Mind you, as the name suggests, Aguardente is not for beginners, so try it at your own risk 😉 )
While *água-pé* is no longer legally sold in Portuguese supermarkets or larger stores, it can still be found in smaller, local shops as part of domestic production.
As they say in Portugal: É dia de São martinho. Comem-se castanhas; prova-se o vinho! (“It is St. Martin’s Day. We’ll eat chestnuts; we’ll taste the wine.”)
To catch one of these magustos in Portugal, check the agenda of the towns. Also, many Portuguese restaurants will be offering special menus and/or events.
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